Creating Dimensional Objects - Part Two - Padding

Yesterday, we printed two objects on our cotton fabric. We also planned our design by printing the image on paper first. Today, we will pad the fabric image and get it ready to applique down. The padding is thin, but will give it some dimension by raising the image slightly off the background block. However, this technique can be done with fusible interfacing that does not "pad" the image as well.
 
Step One: Trim the paper image to represent the final required size and shape of the fabric portion of the image. You will cut away all of the parts of the image that you don't want to use. For example, in this design...the corset lady's hair will be stitched...so the bun is not needed. And, for the CanCan dancer...the skirt will be created from lace...so is not needed...just the legs.
 
 Step Two: Use this paper as a pattern to cut your interfacing for padding the image. A small dot of glue can  be placed on the reverse of your paper pattern to hold it in place while trimming around the pattern. Then remove the paper from the padding.

 Step Three: Carefully peel the fabric from the freezer paper in your fabric printed sandwich.
 
 Step Four: Trim around the fabric images loosely...and the press with a hot iron...front and back.
 
 Step Five:  Place the padding shapes on the back of the fabric images...aligning the shapes with the same shape on the image. 
 
 Here are the three parts...the paper trimmed image, the padded part, and the fabric image. A small smear of thin glue can help to hold the padding to the fabric image and keep it in place...but only put it in the center area...not along the edges where stitching will later take place.
 
Step Six: When the padding shape is securely in place...trim the fabric to within 1/4 of an inch of the shape...and clip the curves and inside corners along these shapes.
 
 Step Seven: Fold the fabric excess over the padded shape and baste down or glue down lightly.
 
  I use a water/glue for this. Children's washable white glue works fine...and I use 3 parts glue to 1 part water for my solution. It creates a little stiffness, but not so much that you can't stitch through it. When ironed, the glue dries and holds everything in place.
 
Step Eight: Press the padded image front and back to set the ink, help create a defined edge for sewing, and set the glue bond. The images might not be perfect as the legs and head shifted a little...got in too big of a hurry. However, they are not so bad that they can't be used because the embroidery work for the hair and skirt will hide any slight changes if the shape is pretty good. The smaller or thinner the object...the harder it is to keep in line. Just keep trying, and you'll get it right. You can always print more than one...on the same sheet of fabric/paper so you have more to work with that I've done here...only printing one. And, depending on the image you are working with...the amount of precision needed will also change.
These finished padded images are ready for applique to the background. It will be enhanced with more stitching and embellishments. 
 
This ends the tutorial...but stay tuned for how I choose to embellish these padded images for Wilma's block.
 
Photobucket

1 comment:

Pippas quilts said...

Thank you for the tutorial. The thin padding is a brilliant idea.